Chemline

Imani Waddy

A piece from Chemline's current collection

By Miranda Valentine

Averi Bell, the founder of Chemline, strives to be fashionable and sustainable

Averi Bell, owner of Chemline, the sustainable women's clothing boutique nestled in Chinatown's Chung King Court (you might remember it as the epicenter of KCRW's wildly popular "Summer Nights" series) and designer of the store's namesake sustainable line, is holding up one of her printed dresses, and explaining the difference between peace silk and regular silk. The gist is this: peace silk is collected from silkworms without killing them, unlike traditional methods, which grimly include boiling the worms. She points to the dress's pattern. "We do these custom prints, and it's all digitally printed, so there's no waste," Bell explains cheerfully, before moving on to a pair of full, merlot-hued trousers, reminiscent of Katherine Hepburn, and made out of hemp silk. And then there is the convertible jacket made from locally milled Jacquard tencel, a fabric developed from tree bark.

Browsing through the racks in Chemline's bright shop, the idea is striking: If you hadn't been told that these pieces were environmentally sustainable, or if you hadn't requested the fascinating lesson in eco-friendly fabrics that Bell is happy to rattle off, then you would have no idea. These aren't the coarse, plain, and aesthetically unfriendly garments the mind conjures upon hearing the phrase "sustainable clothing." These are skillfully crafted, fashion forward pieces, which just happen to be made in a sustainable way. "Our focus is on fashion, but at the same time, being really conscious of what we're using. You don't have to sacrifice fashion just because you believe in something," explains Bell.

The designer's interest in fashion started at an early age, in the book stacks of her local Orange County library one summer. "I started looking at different history books – I've always loved history, anthropology, human nature – and I realized that fashion can tell you so much about civilization."

She began making custom Halloween costumes, prom dresses, even bathing suits. "I had a tidy little business in high school," she laughs. For a history project she "brought in a whole 18th century gown that I made, powder wig and all. I was lucky to have a teacher who let me study history through my own eyes, and let me interact with my fellow students in that way. I think that's really what sparked my interest in storytelling, and how I can do it through fashion."

Bell went on to formally study history and fashion, the former at USC and the latter at FIDM. Then, after years of working as a costume designer in the film industry, she craved a new challenge. Taking the idea of fashion-as-storytelling to the next level, she created the first Chemline collection as an interpretation of an existing story – the graphic novel Chemline she had penned. The story follows heroine Yves Raven through her journey…somewhere. Bell is mum on the topic, but promises that details about the novel, as well as the direct collection/chapter correlation, will be shared, soon. Two years after that first collection, she opened the Chemline boutique, providing sartorially minded Angelenos with a sustainable shopping destination.

Bell is bringing other designers into the mix, too. Chemline currently carries Los Angeles-based women's line LAVUK, who's designer Natasha Gindin achieves sustainability by using organic fabrics mixed with vintage and recycled remnant fabric. The leather bags on display are from Vancouver-based designer Ashley Watson, who makes her bag and belt line using recycled leather, sourced from everything from old leather jackets to car upholstery. Bell holds out her hand, showing off the apricot gold bracelet made from remnant metal blended together by the designer Tiffany Kunz, whose line is also carried at the shop.

"Chemline is about all of us being designers with an outlet for sustainability, which is why I decided to do only one collection a year, so I can focus on other designer's collections. I'm bringing in new designers for spring, as well," says Bell.

The collections that Bell creates for Chemline embody the convergence of her multifaceted interests and influences. "Because of my costuming background, I look at every silhouette when I design. There isn't a era or decade that I ignore. Chemline really is a blending of a lot of different genres and themes, when it comes to silhouettes, fabric choices, and color stories."

Take for example, the current Chemline collection, which was based on Egyptology, and the conquering of Egypt in the Napoleonic era. Or her upcoming collection, which is an interpretation of the five Frank Lloyd Wright-designed houses here in Los Angeles.

And although she often looks to the past for her inspiration, Bell is just as interested in the future. "My view of sustainability is using both nature and technology for our future. It's about both." And while the physical boutique has its gaze fixed firmly on the future Bell is hoping to have solar panels installed on the shop's roof; all items are created locally using sustainable materials; even her fabric waste is recycled via donations to a charitable women's organization in Africa – the store's soul is rooted in a tradition of service that has been lost on many modern retailers. "I still do appointment-only, and I do make custom pieces for people. I'm also able to do my own customer service."

If you're seeking a shopping experience that harkens back the old school, customer-centric boutique days, but with a thoroughly modern stance, look no further than Chinatown.

Chemline Apparel
Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 7pm and by appointment
504 Chung King Court, Chinatown, Los Angeles
www.ChemlineApparel.com

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