Interview: Jonny Cota

Imani Waddy

Photo courtesy of Skingraft

By Catherine Wright

An interview with one of Downtown's hottest designers

His Spring/Summer 2011 Collection was perhaps the most anticipated show of Los Angeles Fashion Week. His first look, a silk chiffon harem pant – styled with a silk chiffon-draped cardigan and a sculpted shoulder leather waterfall vest, finished off with a jersey and chiffon turban – brought sounds of cheers from the entire audience. Despite a heavy schedule, Skingraft designer Jonny Cota took the time to meet me at his retail store on 4th Street in Downtown L.A., which also serves as a his design studio and company office. While there, he showed me the latest collection and explained his journey from circus act to Adam Lambert's go-to-guy.

Bunker Hill: Skingraft began as sort of an experiment for you. Can you elaborate on that?

Jonny Cota: I started Skingraft with my previous design partner Cassidy Haley. We were stilt walkers and circus performers at the time so the first collections we designed were made for performance artists and circus performers like ourselves. Neither of us went to school for design so there were absolutely no rules guiding our construction and we were able to invent and experiment with many different techniques [for] making garments.

Bunker Hill: When did the fashion transform an art experiment into an actual collection and now very popular line?

Jonny Cota: After a year or so of only making costumes and art-inspired garments we were inspired to make the line more wearable and accessible to our friends and the artists around us. Our first ready-to-wear collection was a painful balance of our costuming roots and our desire to move into a more wearable aesthetic. The collection was well received and we landed our first few retail accounts, and the process of designing ready-to-wear collection became easier and more inspiring. 

Bunker Hill: How has working and being based out of Downtown inspired you as a designer?

Jonny Cota: I found my heart in Downtown Los Angeles. There is a certain abandoned and haunted spirit [here] that really inspires the Skingraft aesthetic and makes for the perfect location to call our home. There is also a refreshing artistic energy in the area with all the artists, designers, galleries, and small businesses that inspires hope in the often times stereotypical sub-cultures of L.A.  

Bunker Hill: Your designs have been featured in many fashion editorials and worn by many celebrities. Is there any one celebrity that you were especially excited to see your designs on?

Jonny Cota: Skingraft recently designed a big portion of Adam Lambert's tour and we really love working with him and his flamboyant style. Adam was one of my first friends I met when I moved to LA and it has been awesome to see his career explode into the mainstream as Skingraft also becomes more and more visible internationally. We have worked together since before American Idol and I just really admire his limitless vision.

Bunker Hill: What inspires your designs?

Jonny Cota: Each season I become obsessed with different imagery and music that eventually inspires the newest collection. I took my inspiration for Spring 2011 from African tribal body modification and the ghosts of ancestors. Exaggerated, draped harem pants and cowl-neck cotton tops re-imagine the classic Skingraft silhouette of mainly structured leather garments and accessories. Using silks, jerseys, and hand-washed sheep skins for the first time, Skingraft focuses this season on the delicate lightness of dark.

Bunker Hill: I'm sure putting on a runway show is an insane amount of work. What were the last few days like leading up to your presentation? 

Jonny Cota: We absolutely love putting on runway shows but the days leading up to the show are incredibly stressful and difficult. An average pre-runway show day includes draping, sewing, model castings, fittings, tears, ridiculous amounts of laughter, bottles of wine, coffee, more tears, and a rollercoaster of ups and down.

Bunker Hill: What is your favorite part of your job as a designer?

Jonny Cota:I often times take my position for granted. It is good for me to remind myself that I get to spend everyday creating the visions in my head, and I am lucky enough to do it as a living.  

 

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