Review: Corkbar

Corkbar

Your friendly neighborhood wine bar

By Gillian Singletary

Somewhere between the wine snobs of Napa Valley and the box of Franzia chilling in your fridge is Downtown’s Corkbar – an inviting wine bar that all manner of fermented grape aficionados can appreciate.

Practically in the shadow of L.A. Live, but still only a few blocks from 213 venues like the Golden Gopher, its relaxed but classy atmosphere is perfect for an after-work drink. As the sun goes down, a dim coziness takes over that’s perfect for appetizers or even dinner.

When you first walk in, the space feels a million miles away from other dirty Downtown digs. The ceilings are high, the walls are mostly glass and imperfectly blond wood tables decorate the dining area, while high-tops and lanky chairs are nestled together in the bar area. On some weeknights, a live jazz ensemble plays in one corner of the bar. Even though the space and the acoustics aren’t perfect for walking bass lines (the music can overpower a conversation on the other side of the room), it never hurts to sit a little closer to your sipping and swirling companions.

Once you’ve chosen a seat, you’ll be presented with an ever-evolving wine list. Though there are plenty of options, Corkbar manages to pare the list down so that it’s not overwhelming like the heavy and intimidating lists of stuffier establishments. Instead, a slim and narrow menu will direct you to over 50 different wines by the glass and even more by the bottle. Some come from as far away as Australia and others as close as Paso Robles. The menu’s descriptions will lead you down paths toward “floral notes,” “cherry flavors,” and even “earthly warmth.” If you’re not so sure what to order, a smiling server will also be more than happy to suggest something.

With the wine on the way, you may want to start with a fancy cheese plate to whet your appetite. Their choices in cheeses are impressive and delicious. Served in small squares, on a cheese board with a side of fresh baguette, these cheeses are definitely a step up from Tillamook. I was particularly taken with the Beehive Barely Buzzed Coffee Gouda that had smooth smoky flavors and just a hint of coffee in its dark brown edges.

In addition to a wide selection of wines and sophisticated cheese plates, Corkbar offers a full menu that goes above and beyond typical bar food or even suspiciously inauthentic “tapas” plates served up at some other wine bars. Replete with farmer’s-market-fresh ingredients, a select but varied seasonal dinner menu means partaking of an entire meal here is a matter of preference, not convenience. Their current menu includes a spring lamb sandwich with chunks of lamb coated in cucumber, mint, onion, and feta. The meat is tender, and the crunch of the cucumber coupled with moist ingredients that soak into the crispy ciabatta roll makes for a fresh and delicious composition. There is also a springtime twist on a California favorite: the duck Cobb salad. It is a crispy duck confit, tossed with cucumber, corn, tomatoes, and bacon, that will not leave you craving its turkey-based counterpart. Textures, flavors, and colors come together for a salad that may be even more California than the original.

Besides its seasonal menu, Corkbar regularly serves some basic fare like their Corkbar Burger, Banana Bread Pudding, and Root Beer Braised Short Ribs (only after 5pm) – which, incidentally, go best with a red wine. I didn’t know that offhand, but the helpful menu does tell you what pairs best with your entrée. Isn’t that kind?

A far cry from intimidating snobbery, the atmosphere at Corkbar is convivial, if at times loud. Even if wine is not your cup of tea, there is something for you here. Or at least for your friends. Or a date. Trust me.

Corkbar ,403 W. 12th Street, Los Angeles, 90015. www.corkbar.com

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