Review: Noe

Noe

Seared Alaskan Halibut served over fruit tomatoes

By Jennifer Hadley

I find something inherently sexy about hotel bars. The potential for clandestine affairs or inappropriate office hook-ups seems to forever hang in the air – and Noe Bar at the Omni Hotel is no different.

As early as 5:45pm mid-week, the bar is quite full with business-casual patrons sipping martinis, telling suggestive jokes, and flirting. Yum.

My bartender delivers my club soda with a bowl of nuts. The bright green wasabi-coated nuts, which I hear the bartender say are directly imported from Japan, are heavenly, even if they don’t look particularly seductive. I devour them like a hyena. I’d like a refill, but I’m about to go to a tasting at the adjacent Noe Restaurant and I’m trying to exercise a little restraint.

Prying myself from the cozy atmosphere of the lounge, I head over to the adjoining restaurant where I’m to meet my friends, and enjoy a tasting prepared by Glen Ishii, Noe’s Executive Chef since 2007. Ishii, I know, has been a power player in the cuisine world of Los Angeles for years. Born to parents who owned and operated Tokyo Garden in Little Tokyo, Ishii was chopping vegetables in the family’s restaurant before many of us even knew how to ride a bike. Prior to joining Noe he’d worked at Café Del Rey as well as Ocean 33 Degrees in Orange County. I’m pretty sure I’m in competent hands, and thankfully so, as I’m starving.

Because it’s still early, the floor to ceiling windows that face out over the outdoor patio keep the main dining area fairly bright, so it doesn’t have the dark, sultry aura of the bar. However, the décor is exceptionally easy on the eyes. Plum linen tablecloths cover the tables, and subtly colored (but not neutral) walls are adorned with simple, elegant artwork. I appreciate the fact that the place isn’t over accessorized, as the view out onto the patio (overlooking California Plaza) is really the selling point.

Our tasting begins with Noe’s homemade Focaccia and butter rolls. Both are good, but I lean towards the Focaccia as I’m a bit of a cheese junky. Chef Ishii next brings out, bar none, the best Sea Scallops I’ve ever had. At about an inch thick, and two inches in diameter, these little suckers are off the hook. Served over spring peas with just enough pancetta to sweeten the deal, I could have eaten all of them, and probably called it a meal.

I’m nervous about the next appetizer, the Roasted Beet Salad with Roquefort Cheese. I had a bad experience with beets during a juice fast years ago, and have avoided them ever since. However, as I bite into them, the contrast in flavor with the Roquefort Cheese is interesting, and I certainly don’t dislike it.

I wouldn’t change a single thing about King Crab Salad, which is topped with cucumbers and hardboiled eggs. From its elegant presentation, to its seamless blending of flavors, the only thing that bothered me was that I had to share it with others. I tried the Beef Tartare that comes with four ramekins of various condiments, but the truth is, I can’t fairly judge whether it was good. Raw red meat freaks me out, period. But my friend went back for seconds and thirds.

The first main course is the most fragrant. The Lamb Two Way (a lamb chop and lamb sausage atop a bed of braised cabbage) smells fantastic. The sausage is incredibly strong, a bit overpowering for me, but the chop is cooked to a rare perfection. The mashed potatoes are creamy, and subtle as opposed to the over-garlicky type so many restaurants serve.

Prime N.Y Steak tastes exceptionally clean. Void of much discernible spice, it is incredibly tender, but simple. The sweet potato fries accompanying the steak are as good as any I’ve had.

The big winner of main courses is the special of the day, Seared Alaskan Halibut, served over fruit tomatoes. Chef Ishii says it’s a bit undercooked, but this fish should be so, and I think he’s right. Rather than being dense, almost to the point of tough, as I’ve had it served before, Ishii’s version is so flaky and light it breaks apart effortlessly with your fork.

Lemon Tart, Chocolate Torte, and Irish Crème Caramel are all brought for dessert, and I’d have happily eaten all of all three of them. The Lemon Tart was an especially nice surprise, as I don’t fancy myself a fruit tart aficionado, but when I go back I’ll definitely order it, as I love the way its slight sourness gave me that little tickle at the back of my jaw.

Because the sun has gone down, the now-dim restaurant has the same seductive feel as the bar. And because of the delightful meal I’ve enjoyed courtesy of Chef Ishii, I leave Noe, fully sated for the night, but very much looking forward to our next rendezvous.

Noe Restaurant & Bar, Omni Hotel, 251 South Olive Street, Los Angeles 90012. Reservations: www.noerestaurant.com

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